Despite a near-400-year occupation, even the Roman Empire and its famously straight roads couldn't impose their will on the Peak District. The one thing that refused to be conquered was the local geology, which splits itself between the Dark Peak of the north and the White Peak of the south. Difficult terrain often means great driving roads, yet all the best-known Peak District switchbacks – the Snake Pass, Holme Moss Summit and the Strines – lie within the boundaries of the gritstone north.

Which raises the question: what do the southern limestone dales have to offer?

If you’re a Driving Enthusiast, quite a lot. We’ll be using The Bentley Brook Inn as our anchor point for the drive, located at the base of the national park just off the A515 a few miles north of Ashbourne, where it meets the B5056. Our opening salvo is easily my favourite road of the day in terms of pure driving, backed up by attractive – but not distracting – scenery that alternates between limestone outcrops the road has to wiggle around and tall pine forests it must thread through. The surface is well maintained and the sightlines are a mixture of blind and clear, with gentle elevation changes and corners spanning second to fourth gear. 

It sounds like the textbook B-road, but there are a couple of caveats to the B5056. Its twisty nature means overtaking opportunities are infrequent, and Grange Mill Quarry sits halfway along, leaving a dusty surface that can compromise grip in marginal conditions. Watch for the oversized aggregate HGVs sharing the road too.

The Best Driving Roads in the Southern Peak District: The Manifold Loop - Alpine A110 pauses for breath on Leek Rd during a blizzard

Eventually, the A6 rudely calls time on the fun. Anyone in possession of a sweet tooth – or looking to shave some miles from the route – should indicate left and pass through Bakewell. Otherwise turn right, follow the trunk road briefly to Rowsley, and pick up the B6012. This road provides the biggest contrast of the day as it runs through the manicured lawns of the Chatsworth Estate, crossing the Derwent just beyond Beeley and sweeping rhythmically across the open parkland. Timing is key, however, given the crowds the stately home draws.

Once Chatsworth House flashes by on the right, it's a quick-fire sprint to Ashford in the Water, where we'll pivot north-west, taking the B6465 out of the village. Consider this stretch more scenic interlude than driver’s favourite, though the view from Monsal Head across to the Headstone Viaduct is worth a stop.

The next target is the B6049, which we join south of Tideswell as it swoops its way downhill through the woodlands of Millers Dale, where the sunshine struggles to penetrate the thick canopy. Halfway down comes the highlight: a right-left-right sequence that’s enough to set the traction control light flickering, before the road kisses the River Wye and climbs up the opposite side. We butt heads with the A6 again, but mercifully it’s a quick run through the gears to reach the A5270 heading south, which has far more going for it.

In fact, this road should really be called the AB5270, such is the way it straddles the line between the two: big speed followed by the sudden need to shed it for a tightening, undulating combination. After the constant company of drystone walls, the openness of the valley and wider tarmac can feel disorientating. Undercook it and you'll rue the missed opportunity; overcook it and you'll be adding to the car-shaped holes in the scenery.

From there, the B5053 doesn't have the most promising of starts, flirting with an industrial estate on the fringes of Buxton. But stick with it: before long the road is riding the shoulder of the 400m-high Dow Low rise, a series of kinks unfurling in front of you as the best vista of the day opens up to your right. The plunge down to Glutton Bridge puts the emphasis back on your inputs, demanding precise braking where the road squeezes between Hitter Hill and Parkhouse Hill. Beware human chicanes on the way down – both hills are popular with walkers.

At Longnor, turn right at the village crossroads onto Leek Road. Despite the inviting NSL sign, temper your speed during the initial stretch, for the surface is on the rough side. Persevere, though, and a proper rollercoaster emerges as the farmland gives way to open moorland, with blind crests and dips guaranteed to test your nerve. One yump in particular requires little effort to launch you and bears the scars of many long-jump artists.

Upon reaching the A53, don’t get distracted by the straight as far as the eye can see, or you’ll miss the immediate – and tight – turning for Blackmere Road hiding behind the Winking Man country pub. This is the most technically demanding road of the day: no two corners are alike, with a fast bend often leading you into one with a much tighter radius. And that’s before you factor in the vertical rhythm and road surface – above a certain speed, the damping on many cars will struggle to keep up with the oscillations.

Alpine A110 by Ben Midlane shot at Blake Mere Mermaid Pools during Sunrise

Blackmere requires learning to get the best out of it – initial acquaintance often leads to frustration. Once familiar, it becomes another standout drive, with plenty of lay-bys along its length making it easy to turn around and go again. Pay special attention to the lane dividers; they can forecast hidden ruts. If you have time to look up from the hustle, you’ll feel on top of the Peak District with views stretching for miles.

One of those lay-bys is the imaginatively named 'Amazing Sunset Spot'. Shortly after, the road forks – take the left, signposted Alternative HGV Route, and follow this all the way to the bottom. If you’re using a sat nav, ignore the instruction to cut the corner to Onecote and complete the 'V', taking the left onto the B5053. It's simply more fun.

Following the intensity of Blackmere, the second leg of the B5053 brings a welcome change of tempo. The road surface is calmer but a fraction narrower, reining in the pace. Not that it lacks for drama: the sudden descent towards Warslow, with its off-camber, tightening sweepers, will make you feel especially smug if you’re in a hot hatch with a limited-slip differential.

Alpine A110 on the Rush magazine southern driving loop

Once past Warslow, turn right onto the B5054 heading for the sleepy hamlet of Hulme End. The accommodating width and smooth surface invite a gravity-aided burst of acceleration before you’re hard on the brakes for the 30mph limit.

Thrill-seekers will enjoy sticking to the B5054 through Hartington and on to the A515, a short distance from The Bentley Brook Inn, where we started the drive. But at this point we're nearly two hours of wheel-time in – I'd suggest turning right at the Manifold Inn for a change of scenery and a gentler pace. 

This unclassified road skirts the edge of the Manifold Valley before dropping steeply into the limestone gorge at Milldale, offering a taste of the Peak District's sleepier side, with isolated stone cottages and an old watermill beside the River Dove. It also brings us full circle onto the A515 closer to our starting point, and is a great way to settle the pulse before returning to the real world.

Like its geology, this southern loop has peaks and troughs, with high points every bit as good as those on the Oopnurthring. The difference is in the stitching: where the Dark Peak knits its best roads into one continuous flow, the White Peak demands a little more patience between them. That makes it more support act than headliner, but one well worth catching, whether you're a local in search of a new challenge or a visitor from further afield looking to justify making a weekend of it.

Need to Know

While the majority of the B-roads suggested on this route are NSL, many of the main thoroughfares in the area have blanket 50mph limits, which mobile camera traps are known to frequent.

Ideal car for the route:

Alpine A110 – small, agile, impeccable ride and punchy turbocharged mid-range.
Toyota GR Yaris
– great damping, long-travel suspension and an armoury of differentials will make the most out of every situation.

Journey Time:

Approx two hours
Circa 67 miles

Shorter Monyash Loop:

Cutting 20 minutes and 13 miles from the main route, this streamlined version takes the B5055 out of Bakewell. Stay sharp on the descent to Crowdecote: only a centuries-old drystone wall stands between you and certain doom should you get distracted by the craggy peak of High Wheeldon and out-brake yourself entering the 270-degree hairpin.

If you don't like the sound of the jiggly moorland tarmac spanning the western leg of the route, you can take a shortcut at the Mermaid Inn. Confusingly also named Leek Road, this one runs to Warslow and has plenty of character. It's relatively quiet too.

Where to Eat & Drink

Budget

Coach & Horses, Ashbourne – reliable pub lunch, log fire, good ales.
‍The Bakewell Tart Shop & Coffee House – an iconic stop. You'll queue, but it's worth it.
‍Coach & Horses Inn, Fenny Bentley – on the A515 at the start of the route, open from 10am.

Mid-range

The Machine Inn, Ashbourne – modern British food, boutique rooms above.
‍The Duncombe Arms, Ellastone – gastropub on the Staffordshire/Derbyshire border. Classic and modern British food, log fires and a garden with Dove Valley views. Book ahead.
‍The Jervis Arms, Onecote – on the route itself, and well placed for a late lunch on the final stretch.

Splurge

The Tasting Club, Brailsford – 10-course tasting menu, Wednesday to Saturday evenings only. Book well ahead.
‍Rafters at Riverside House, Ashford in the Water – restaurant with rooms on the River Wye, from the team behind Rafters in Sheffield.
‍Wildhive Callow Hall, Ashbourne – country house hotel and restaurant at the gateway to the Peak District. Seasonal British menu from the kitchen garden.

Alpine A110 front detail image by Ben Midlane. Rush Magazine south Peak District Driving route

Where to Stay

Budget

Premier Inn Buxton – functional and reliable, with good access to the western half of the loop.
‍Bagshaw Hall Sleep Lodge, Bakewell – budget self-catering annex of a 300-year-old hall, with panoramic views over Bakewell.

Mid-range

The Peacock Inn, Bakewell – traditional pub with B&B in a converted 200-year-old barn.
‍Holly Meadow Farm B&B, Bradley (nr Ashbourne) – 280-acre working farm with outstanding views. An ideal base for the southern end of the route.
‍Atlow Mill, nr Ashbourne – self-catering in a 17th-century watermill in its own private valley. Hot tub, pizza oven and secluded woodland.

Splurge

H Boutique Hotel, Bakewell – centrally located, family-owned since 1983. Super king beds, White Company toiletries, jacuzzi baths in select rooms.
The Rutland Arms, Bakewell
– historic hotel where Jane Austen reportedly wrote parts of Pride & Prejudice.
Wildhive Callow Hall, Ashbourne
– Victorian country house with woodland Hives and Treehouses across 35 acres.

Alpine A110 rear detail image by Ben Midlane. Rush Magazine south Peak District Driving route

Points of Interest:

Dovedale & Dove Valley – the Stepping Stones are one of the Peak District's most photographed spots. Busy in summer, magical in winter.
‍Chatsworth House – right on the route. Allow half a day at least.
‍Haddon Hall – arguably more interesting architecturally than Chatsworth, less visited and medieval in character.
Alstonefield
– quiet village on the Milldale detour, worth a brief stop.
Hartington
– home to a well-stocked cheese shop for local produce.
Monyash
– one of the quieter, better-preserved White Peak villages. Worth a short walk.